Ankara, Adire, Kente and Aso Oke: Describing African Fabrics Online

Ankara is a printed wax-style cotton, adire is Yoruba resist-dyed cloth, kente is strip-woven cloth from Ghana, and aso oke is handwoven Yoruba cloth. Name the fabric correctly, say how it is made and tell shoppers how it behaves when worn, and your listings will build trust.

Shoppers often search by fabric name, and many don't know the differences. Clear descriptions help buyers choose and help your brand look knowledgeable. The wider picture is in our guide to virtual try-on for African fashion brands.

What is the difference between these four fabrics?

They differ in how they are made, where they come from and how they feel. This table is a simple guide. Check details with your own supplier, because quality and local names vary.

Fabric	Made by	Main tradition	How it usually feels
Ankara (African wax print)	Printed cotton with bold designs	Widely worn across West Africa	Crisp, medium weight, little stretch
Adire	Resist dyeing, often indigo	Yoruba, southwestern Nigeria	Soft cotton, shade varies by piece
Kente	Narrow strips woven and sewn together	Ghana, linked to Akan and Ewe weavers	Dense, firm, heavy
Aso oke	Handwoven on a narrow loom	Yoruba, for weddings and celebrations	Thick, stiff, textured

Ankara is the name most shoppers know, and sellers often use "African print" as a general term. Use the more specific names when you can.

How should you describe Ankara?

Say that it is a printed cotton with bold designs, and state the real composition from your supplier. Mention whether the print appears on both sides, since that affects how the garment looks inside out and at seams.

Add the print scale, such as large motif or small repeat. Say how it behaves: crisp, with little give. For fit, link to the sizing notes in selling African print and Ankara online.

How should you describe adire?

Adire is made by resisting dye, so no two pieces match exactly. Say so in the listing, because variation is part of the cloth, not a flaw.

Explain the technique if you know it, such as tie-dye or hand-painted resist, and name the dye color. Shoppers who see a sample photo should know the piece they receive will differ slightly. The article on adire variation and sizing covers how to set that expectation.

How should you describe kente?

Kente is woven in narrow strips that are then joined, so the pattern repeats in bands. Name the weaving tradition accurately and avoid calling any bright printed cloth kente.

If your piece is machine-made or a print inspired by kente, say so plainly. Honest labeling protects your reputation and respects the weavers.

How should you describe aso oke?

Aso oke is handwoven, thick and structured. It holds shape, which suits headwraps, caps and ceremonial outfits.

Because the cloth is stiff, tell shoppers how it affects fit and comfort. Mention the weight and whether the piece is lined. Our guide to selling aso oke for weddings goes deeper, and the guide to sizing made-to-measure clothing covers custom orders.

How do you avoid mislabeling a fabric?

Mislabeling is the quickest way to lose trust with buyers who know their cloth. Follow a few simple rules.

• Use a fabric name only when the cloth matches the tradition behind it.
• If a print imitates a traditional cloth, say "inspired by" and name the original.
• Ask your supplier what the cloth is and how it was made, and record the answer.
• Credit makers where you can, especially for handwoven and hand-dyed pieces.

Honest labeling also protects you from complaints. A shopper who expects handwoven cloth and gets a machine print will return it, and may tell others.

How do the fabrics change fit and sizing?

Each cloth behaves differently on the body. A crisp wax-print cotton holds its shape and has little give, so a tight cut can feel restrictive. Handwoven aso oke is thick and stiff, so it needs more room and often a tailored cut.

Adire cotton is softer but can shrink if it is washed hot, so tell shoppers how to care for it. Kente is dense and heavy, which suits wraps, stoles and trims more than fitted bodices.

Put one fit sentence in every listing, such as "this cloth has no stretch, so choose the larger size if you are between sizes."

What should every fabric listing include?

Use this checklist so shoppers can compare pieces fairly:

• The fabric name and how it is made
• Fiber content, as given by your supplier
• Stretch: none, slight or stretchy
• Weight and feel: light, medium or heavy
• Care instructions
• Notes on color or pattern variation
• A close-up photo of the cloth

Fabric also changes how a garment fits. A stiff cloth with no stretch needs more ease than a soft one. See telling the story behind adire for ideas on wording.

FAQs

Is Ankara the same as African print?

People often use the terms interchangeably. Ankara usually means the printed wax-style cotton, while "African print" can cover other printed cloths too.

Is kente only from Ghana?

Kente is strongly tied to Ghana and to Akan and Ewe weaving traditions. Cloth made elsewhere should be described as inspired by kente, not as kente.

Can I wash aso oke at home?

Care depends on the fiber and construction. Follow your supplier's guidance, and write the care instructions in the listing.

Why does adire look different each time?

Resist dyeing is done by hand, so patterns and shades vary between pieces. Tell shoppers this before they buy.